Montelimar to Nyons - 30 May 2011

Had a good chinwag with the Australian lady at breakfast today.  They are criss-crossing Europe by plane and train and will be in the UK next week visiting relatives in Newcastle.  They will also be in Rome at roughly the same time as us. Said goodbye to Serge (the owner) and the lovely lady who we assume is his wife who asked us to explain the meaning of the word “shifty”. 

Arrived at Nyons, which is another lovely place with the feel of Provence about it.  Set in a bowl of hills with a nice square surrounded by trees.  Booked in at the hotel La Caravelle 79€, then had the usual coffee and spent 3-4 hours exploring Nyons as the room was not available until 3.00.  There is a park here with a Fragrant Garden that was delightful, then walked down the river to a roman bridge passing a quarter of a mile of assorted herbs planted along the river bank.  Walked round the old part of the city.  There are two peculiar churches here with skeletal spires – they actually give you a feeling of ungodliness.

Very hot today but had a shower of rain in the early evening.  Ate at La Tentation, a small restaurant – and we mean small, with only 2 staff one being untrained.  Had a long wait but the food was lovely.  Simple and tasty.  40€.

Barnaby in playful mood

Roman bridge still in use - Nyons

Church spire - Nyons

The other church spire - Nyons

Montelimar - 29 May 2011

Awake at 7.45 on a glorious sunny day and had a good breakfast at the hotel including toast!  The price you pay for a breakfast has no relation to its quality or content – we’ve paid 7€ for a piece of baguette, a sachet of jam and a coffee – oh for a full English! 

Found a launderette and washed the clothes.  Also helped an Australian couple with theirs.  They are staying at our hotel, along with several Dutch, Belgians and a New Zealander who wished Jane good morning in Welsh (bora da).

Had a sandwich lunch in the local park feeding the ducks, hens, chickens, goats, emus, donkeys and horses – oops forgot the fish.  Honestly – not joking!

Quiet day today as we have a longish drive tomorrow.  Out at Don Corleone’s  (actually Camillas) tonight where we had a large pizza and large salad outside in the sunshine.  45€.  Some slightly drunk beggars nearby were causing some consternation.  Their dogs were far better behaved than they were.  Back to the hotel at 10.00.

Aubenas to Montelimar - 28 May 2011

Left Aubenas as 8.30 and took the faster ‘N’ road as there did not seem to be a more scenic route.  Parked at the station and wondered across a large park and stumbled into The Sphinx Hotel.  Promptly booked it for 2 days as what we can see of Montelimar is very pleasing. Our room at the Sphinx is accessed from an outside staircase in a courtyard and there is a large upstairs arched loggia with tables and chairs. There is definitely a southern ambience to this place – perhaps it’s the trees and shrubs, the hotter sun or the people, but it feels Mediterranean.  Hotel room is great after yesterdays – 71€.  Had lunch outside in a square – 2 salads plus drinks for 20€ - and very relaxing it was too.  Later stumbled around the busy market and nougat shops as I thought I’d send some to the school.  The selection I thought was appropriate was 42€! So hard luck school.

Amnesty International were celebrating their 50^th anniversary and causing a lot of noise with drums and speeches on the park.



Tony inspecting the goods Montelimar market 



Sphinx Hotel, Montelimar

Quite a few available restaurants tonight.  We chose Les Coleurs which was an OK meal for 40€.

Le Puy to St. Eulalie to Aubenas – 27 May 2011

Up at 7.30 and set off at 8.00.  Weather cloudy and wet!  A majestic drive through les volcans –huge conical hills with flat tops and outrageous depths into the valleys.  Tortuous driving but worth it.  Stopped briefly for a break at St. Eulalie then onward to Aubenas at 10.45 and booked into the Hotel Cevenol – very basic but it has private parking.  Run by ancient old lady and her mother!

Had a walk round and saw loads of restaurants open for lunch but they had all disappeared come time for the evening meal.  Thank god there is always a pizza place open.  Le Duguesclin (must see what this means).  Meal OK every table taken and it had a fantastic panoramic view over the volcanoes.  Jane picked the wine and managed to choose one at 14 ½ %.

The main road was closed this evening – causing chaos to all the local drivers – it had been blocked off for some sort of modelling shoot.

Hotel de ville. The roof os made of multicoloured glass tiles.

How to avoid your downstairs' neighbours - A la France

Le Puy-en-Velay - 26 May 2011

Up and out at 8.10 and sped off uphill to the Cathedral where we had the place to ourselves.  Reminded us a bit of Italian cathedrals with the alternate black and white masonry.  Then carried on up the many, many steps to the statue of the Virgin Mary built at the top of a volcanic lump of rock.  The statue itself is made from 213 guns captured at Sebastopol and weighs 235 tonnes.  Unparalleled views from the top of the volcanic region – at least 20 extinct volcanoes surround Le Puy.  Also visited Church of St. Michael, stupidly built on another needle of volcanic rock.  You have to be faithful to climb up there every day.  After 4 hours looking around went back to the hotal for a well deserved rest.

Another adventure trying to find something edible.  After a goodly walk we chose La Taverna ‘Maitre Kanter’, a vaguely French attempt to cater for Germans.  We have been here nearly 4 weeks – the local markets are overwhelmed with an abundance of fresh vegetables yet the only ones we have been served have been haricot verts and cabbage.  At the restaurant we shared a knuckle of gammon with roast potatoes – and no veg.  40€.  Had a final drink at the hotel and went to bed.  Cooler today 23C.

Le Puy cathedral after 325 large steps

The cathedral half way up the Madonna and child.

The ridiculous Church of St. Michel

Good views around this - shame about the statue.

The local distillery!

Chaudes-Aigues to Saugues to Le Puy-en-Velay 25 May 2011

Left Chaudes Aigues at 8.40 and set off for Le Puy, a journey of about 65 miles through the mountainous terrain of the Central Massif.  Breathtaking.  Stopped at Saugues because the road to Le Puy was blocked so we had to find an alternative route which made the journey longer but we did not mind at all.

Arrived at Le Puy just after mid-day, had a baguette for lunch and walked to the nearest hotel  “Chris’tel” and booked a room for 2 days at 79€. Managed to get the last room available.  There are several other hotels close by but this is the only one with parking.  Place seems to be full of Germans. Without being rude or unkind the hotel looks like a block of flats with every room the same.  Functional, roomy and very clean but completely without any character. Heat is sapping – must be about the same as yesterday.  Went out in the evening looking for restaurants and in the evening the town is transformed into dark ginnels and alleys with occasional lighting provided by shops and upstairs flats.  Really atmospheric as the inhabitants retake the town and come out to play.  Ate at L’Ecu D’Or – had the 3 course Formule menu.  Not too bad but we were spoilt by yesterday’s meal.

The beautiful Hotel Chris'Tel

Plan to be up early tomorrow to explore before the heat of the day becomes too onerous.

St. Flour to Chaudes-Aigues - 24 May 2011

Malheureusement!!  We were told this morning that it would not be possible to stay here another night.  They have a party of 100 hopeful pilgrims arriving.  So upped sticks after breakfast in the refectory and on to Chaudes-Aigues (hot waters).  Beautiful drive through stunning mountainous scenery (is this getting boring for you folks) – saw eagles soaring around.  Fantastic.

Soon arrived at Chaudes and quickly located a very nice place to stay – Hotel Beausejour.  It has a swimming pool but unfortunately cozzies have been left at home.  The town is named after a volcanic spring which emerges from the hillside at a constant 80C.  The place is much visited by ancient people taking the waters – just like Harrogate.  The water is slightly sulphurous and has dubious medicinal properties, although it does seem to reduce your bank balance when you step into it!  Spent the day listening to the sound of worn out hip replacements creaking up the slope to the very modern and swish Spa Baths.

Did not take long to explore every nook and cranny here and there is nothing really worthwhile to mention actually.  Left the Hotel at 6.30 for the usual perambulation looking for food.  Our hotel had the best menu and the food surpassed expectations.  Jane devoured black pudding followed by coq au vin and Tony had charcuterie followed by sea bass with risotto and parmesan.  A cheese course was then offered (choose your own).  We passed on the dessert course and retired – stuffed – to bed.  The best meal so far in France.  Even the local plonk was lovely for 8€.  Very hot today 29C.

Only interesting view of Chaudes-Aigues !

Murat to St. Flour - 23 May 2011

A short journey today, just 23km to St. Flour.  This is another place built on a volcanic outcrop high above the countryside.  A bigger place than Murat but just as steep and narrow.  From a choice of 4 hotels we have decided to stay at La Maison des Planchettes which used to be a seminary which has been converted.  It is very charming, quiet echoing corridors.  Our room has all mod cons and overlooks lovely countryside.  Ambled around the town looking for places of interest, including somewhere to eat later on.  Had lunch in the local park next to a travelling fair. 

As usual, on a Monday, nowhere opens for evening meals so had to partake of the hospitality of the Grand Hotel d’Europe. Meal OK with a panoramic view just like the one from our hotel room.  We had the joy of watching a group of Germans translating from German to English and then into French to understand and order their dinner.  Donner and blitzen! 

View from hotel room

Silver pigeons - they don't s...t on you!

Hotel Maison des Planchettes

Bort-les-Orgues to Murat – 22 May 2011

Woke to a very misty morning; mist drifting down the valley after last night’s rain.  Very eerie.  Left about 9.00 and drove through some breathtaking scenery across the Auverne.  Huge extinct volcanoes litter the countryside creating deep valleys.  Very high altitude in places, the trees disappeared for a while and there are patches of snow still left on the highest peaks. 

Arrived in Murat just in time to see the locals all going to Mass.  Murat is built on the side of an old volcano with a statue of the Madonna and child at the crest.  All the streets are very narrow and steep with the houses piled up almost on top of one another.

Just opposite the Hotel Messageries was the small station which was crowded with people. They had all arrived on, or come to see, a 1946 US steam locomotive and were trainspotters!  See pic taken by our very own trainspotter.

Bought a roast poulet from the local butchers for lunch and in asking for same Tony may have proposed something inadvertently to the (admittedly very attractive) young lady in the shop.  Whatever he said caused much amusement to the other customers.

Went for a walk and had a look at the War Memorial which commemorates the deportationl of 120 citizens in reprisal for the death of a high ranking SS Officer.  80 never returned.

Meal at the hotel tonight – Terrine de campagne and Salad Auvernate followed by Potee Auvernate – very good but far too much food.  Potee is 3 types of pork, belly, gammon and sausage, served with cabbage, carrots and potatoes on a hot metal tray.

Arrived in Murat just in time to see the locals all going to Mass.  Murat is built on the side of an old volcano with a statue of the Madonna and child at the crest.  All the streets are very narrow and steep with the houses piled up almost on top of one another.

Just opposite the Hotel Messageries was the small station which was crowded with people. They had all arrived on, or come to see, a 1946 US steam locomotive and were trainspotters!  See pic taken by our very own trainspotter.

Bought a roast poulet from the local butchers for lunch and in asking for same Tony may have proposed something inadvertently to the (admittedly very attractive) young lady in the shop.  Whatever he said caused much amusement to the other customers.

Went for a walk and had a look at the War Memorial which commemorates the deportationl of 120 citizens in reprisal for the death of a high ranking SS Officer.  80 never returned.

Meal at the hotel tonight – Terrine de campagne and Salad Auvernate followed by Potee Auvernate – very good but far too much food.  Potee is 3 types of pork, belly, gammon and sausage, served with cabbage, carrots and potatoes on a hot metal tray.

Sad, eh.

Murat after an hour's walk

Murat after 2 hour's walk

Woke to a very misty morning; mist drifting down the valley after last night’s rain.  Very eerie.  Left about 9.00 and drove through some breathtaking scenery across the Auverne.  Huge extinct volcanoes litter the countryside creating deep valleys.  Very high altitude in places, the trees disappeared for a while and there are patches of snow still left on the highest peaks. 

Aubusson to Bort-les-Orgues - 20 May 2011

Left Aubusson just after 9:00 having paid for a mean petit dejeuner at Les Lissiers, and, after an hour or so, stopped off at the Village of St Sauves D’Auverne for a butchers. Lovely place, in the foothills of the Centrale Massif, but too small for two inquisitive people for a whole day. After a brief walk around we headed South to see what turned up, really. Whilst driving we encountered a young deer crossing the road as elegant as you like. Eventually arrived at Bort – Les – Orgues , a town on the Dordogne which is famous for a man -made lake with a Hydro –Electric generating station. It’s a buzzy place with a cheap (€55) hotel so we decided to stay a couple of days to do some washing , etc. The hotel is very nice and we have a room overlooking the river (see photo). Did the usual tour of the town – the church was of the squat type predominant around these parts, but this one was enlivened by the addition of modern (1950’s – 60’s) stained glass windows. The lent the church a different, more optimistic light.

Later we ate at “La Mamma” an Italian/ French crossover restaurant: Tres bon at €35!

Second day at Bort-les-Orgues.  Spent the whole morning shopping at Carrefour and La Poste (not really - joking).  Reorganised ourselves and the car.  After breakfast of croissants and jam, decided to visit the local chateau, a drive of 4 miles, by the side of a man made lake.  Drove over the dam.  Had a lovely lunch at the lakeside on a beautiful summer's day.  Been a really lazy day and why not, no pressure to rush anywhere.  Went to La Mamma again as food is very good and value for money - 31€ for bottle of wine, pizza, tagliatelle and carpaccio of beef.  While we were there it threw it down with rain - stair rods!  Plenty of people to keep us amused in the restaurant including a French guy eating his gizzards.  Went back to hotel and watched the French equivalent of You've been Framed before drifing off to sleep

Barnaby at Bort

View from our room at Central Hotel

Chateau de Val, Bort

Ahun to Aubusson - 19 May 2011

Said goodbye to Monsieur Max at Lion D’Or after breakfast and drove off down the D942 to Aubisson – 20 miles. It is set in a deep gorge of the River Creuse and everything is constructed of the local volcanic stone, which gives the houses and buildings a conformity of colour – grey. Once famous for the manufacture of tapestries the cottage industry was set upon the river, with the lower orders on the banks (weavers, dyers) and with the entrepreneurs and owners  higher up. Stayed at the Hotel  Les Lissiers (a lissier was a frame setter for a loom). Quite cosy @ €44. Rained during the afternoon which curtailed T & J’s restaurant promenade somewhat. We actually had dinner at the hotel because everywhere else was closed. It was an average meal but we were royally entertained by five Netherlanders on the table opposite. We came away convinced some people have no appetites, but something far larger.

Weavers houses - Aubusson

Statue on roundabout - Aubusson

La Chatre to Ahun – 18 May 2011

Stopped briefly at Carrefour for lunch items on way out of La Chatre.  Had vague plan to stay at Gueret but it turned out to be a big industrial town with not much appeal.  Drove a bit further on to Ahun – a small village with a market in full swing.  Only one Hotel – Le Lion D’Or with a room for 36€.  This will do nicely.  Drove down to next village, Moutier d’Ahun and ate by the side of the river next to an old bridge.  Delightful spot – watched fisherman catch two fish and various other people lunching, reading and painting – idyllic. 

Spent some of the afternoon trying to get access to the internet.  Gave up so then explored Ahun.  Five minutes later !  sat down for a pression and a jus d’orange and went to look for somewhere to eat.  Hobson’s choice, Le Sarrasin, a creperie.  Had a lovely time – never judge a book by its cover.  Salad plus two galettes with one crepe for pudding and some ice cream.  Lots of wine and water.  35€.  The restaurant even had an old pinball machine.  Left at 9.15 and went back to the Lion D’Or.

River Creuse picnic

Jane with large parasol.

Loches to La Chatre – 17 May 2011

Left the lovely Hotel George Sand at 9.00.  Quirky place full of typical French touches (and also French maintenance).  Drove sedately for 50ish miles through the industrial city of Chateauroux to the town of la Chatre.  Looked OK so we found a large room at the Hotel Notre Dame then had a very pleasant walk along the River Indre.  The river had been split into channels in the 18^th century to cater for the tanning of leather.  Nowadays the old houses have been mostly restored and make very desirable riverside homes.  Had lunch, bread, toms, ham and cheese purchased in local supermarket, on the Boules pitch.

After the usual afternoon nap, sallied forth in search of evening meal..... found a restaurant and ate outside... wonderful.... served by waitress whose English was excellent.  She had worked in Val D’Isere so had met many English folk (poor woman) and had also learned at school.  Mr.Kilsby’s sense of humour seemed to amuse her too!  Had mussels and Tony had sea bass. We like this place a lot.   

Loches Park

The tanneries

Glamorous couple at L'Estaminet

Amboise – Loches. 16th May 2011

Left  Amboise about 8:50 for Loches and arrived an hour later, about 22 miles. Set off immediately in search of a hotel. The one we fancied was closed for two days (they never give a reason) so we spotted a sign for a hotel and followed the signs for it. When we arrived in Kathmandu we gave it best and walked back to the Tourist Information for advice. They directed us to the “George Sand” where we chose a room looking out over the river for €84. We unloaded the clothes and accoutrements  and set off for a wander around the chateau. Lovely warm spring day was spent here exploring a beautiful little town. In the evening we spent a fruitless traipse of ¾ hour looking for a meal , so headed back to the hotel; where we ate a “cordon bleu “ feast. I had lamb with escargot whilst Jane had Filet de boeuf , followed by a “sphere chocolat avec fruits” and “soupe de fraises et glace” plus the obligatory bouteille du vin. Tres bonne.

And so to bed, relatively late for us, at 11:20pm.

Chateau Loches

Chateau and riven tree!

Jane attempting some extreme fishing

Louche in Loches

Blois - Amboise. 15th May 2011

Set off today, after a very petit dejeuner, to Amboise.  Arrived, parked and quickly found a room at the Hotel Blason.  We walked along to the place where Leonardo Di Vinci lived for the last three years of his life, Clos Luce, and a splendid 2 ½ hours was spent there. There were many models of his inventions and ideas for machines such as tanks, canons, helicopters, bridges.   In the large garden there were full size models of these inventions, along with restaurants, streams and many plants and trees.  All in all a good day out.  Tony had his first proper meal here – mushroom omelette.  No ill effects.

Back at the Hotel we discovered it was a hazardous place for tall people, but the beams do add character, especially the ones with the blood on.

With the usual trepidation, we descended on the town looking for a restaurant, which is usually tres difficile on a Sunday. Fortunately, Amboise is a very popular destination with tourists, so tonight there was no problem, and we wandered into “le Anne de Bretagne”. This is the second time in two days we’ve come across the Queen who had two Kings. We had a jovial evening watching other diners, especially the Frenchman with the profiteroles, and an American couple who seemed to wait an age for any kind of service. When it arrived, they ate their two courses “al gusto” as they say in Italy.

 And so to bed .

Invalid recovered.

Leonardo's Tank. Les enfants can play in it.

Jane with a touch of the vapours.

A very large Vitruvian Man.

Vendome - Blois 14th May 2011

Awoke to the sound of rain today, and feeling a little stronger I attempted, successfully, breakfast consisting of a boiled egg with some toast.  Of course, felt much the worse for it an hour later but nevertheless we packed up and drove to Blois. 

Stopped at the Anne de Bretagne Hotel but they were full.  However the lady on reception phoned up their sister hotel Le Monarque  and secured us an acceptable room  at €58.

Spent a very interesting 1 ½ hrs at the Chateau de Blois which is basically a 4 sided quadrangle with a building of a different century on each side but amalgamated almost seamlessly together.  Bronzes of Richard of Warwick, Earl of Leicester in one of the rooms.

After the usual afternoon nap, went out for a stroll through the town and down to the Loire which is very low at the moment, then for a meal – Jane starving!  Tony had spare bits from Jane’s meal – Italian cold meats then pizza.  One small Stella and large bottle of water for Tony and ½ litre of wine for Jane – any spelling mistakes are due to this!  Stomach has coped with this gargantuan meal (so far).  And so to bed.

Le Roi Barnaby addresses his subjects.

Chateau  Blois

La Loire, France's longest river.

Nogent-le-Rotrou, Vendome – 12 May 2011

 

Well – so much for the fillet steak and French beef being the best in the world!!!  Woken at 5.30am by Tony being very ill in the toilet.  Fetched Imodium from the Pharmacie at 9.00 and he felt “safe enough” to continue the journey by about 10.30.  Got to Vendome by about 11.45 and found a hotel, Le St. Georges.  A bit expensive at €89 but it does have a kitchenette in the room.  Tony was very sick in the afternoon and has spent most of the time either on the toilet or in bed.  I am dining on a bag of crisps tonight and he will have a few sips of bottled water.  We are hoping he will feel better tomorrow as Vendome looks a very nice place and there is a market every Friday.  Have arranged to stay here tomorrow night as well.

Vendome – 13 May 2011

Both slept OK without any disturbances for the loo.  Tony managed a piece of bread and jam for breakfast.  Both went to launderette and then pharmacie for rehydration sachets – got some but on reading instructions they are for small children – I’m sure they will work just the same.  Went for a walk around town on my own as Tony has no energy.  Took some nice pics.  T felt a bit better later so we had a stroll but he flagged after about 15 mins.  Back to Hotel.  Blois tomorrow hopefully with something more interesting to report.

Le Loir river vendome

Convalescent Home for Mr. Kilsby

Small riverside home in Vendome

Montagne - au - Perche, Belleme, Nogent - le - Rotrou

Left  Montagne early as we thought we could get a petit dejeuner at the next village, which was Bellệme. Arrived before they had opened up the shops, so strolled around another lovely spot; where in the 11^th century Henry II parleyed with his barons.

Bought some baguettes and croissants and also braved “La Poste” for some stamps for England. Carried on to Nogent – le –Rotrou which is a bustling market town with few redeeming features except for its own château. We booked a room at the Hotel Sully (€68) and walked uphill about a mile to La Château St. Jean. Lunched in the grounds, took photos and eventually entered the château for €3 each. The keep is very high, explaining why the Germans used it as an aircraft early warning station, in WW2. It also has a small museum dedicated to “La Perche” the area we are currently in , which means cider, cheese, wool and horses. There is an exhibition of paintings and sculpture by Paul Sauvat – rudimentary works that attempt to capture the nature of the local horses – Les Percheron.

The only restaurant that looked vaguely agreeable was “La casa Line’s, an Italian where I attempted a filet de boeuf and Jane had a bruscetta that looked like a pizza. Both OK though, but cost €42.

Barnaby at Chateau St Jean

Chateau St Jean

Verneuil, Chartres, Verneuil – 9 May 2011

One week away – life is slowing down deliciously. Did some washing at Laverette then returned for Continental petit dejeuner at the Hotel.  Had a look at the map and decided to go to Chartres for a look at the Cathedral.  Chartres itself looks pristine if a little modern in the centre.  Parked underground in massive car park.  The Cathedral is impressive but is being renovated so had some scaffolding inside and out.  The renovated bits are wonderful, light and translucent.  Drove back and had siesta.

Not easy to find a place to eat in France on a Monday – everything shuts down.  However the Pizza Plus restaurant on the square was open and we had a surprisingly nice meal.  Chicken wings and pizza for Jane and goats cheese salad and potato,mushroom and bacon omelette for Tony. Waitresses nice charming – helping us with our French and us helping them with their English.

Monsieur Barnaby using a sundial.

Chartres cathedral.

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