Rome - Anguillara - Bracciano - 28th June 2011

Up at 5.00am as planned and arrived at the garage at 6.00 to collect the car.  Garage still closed but pushing the bell a couple of times, at 6.15, a yawning man emerged to open up.  The cost was 160€ for 8 days storage.

The drive away from Rome was almost faultless – on one occasion found ourselves driving back into Rome but we (luckily) found a place to do a U turn.  Arrived at Anguillara at 7.20am and looked round for an hour. We couldn’t find a hotel that appeared to be open so we drove round the lake to Bracciano where we would be reasonably sure of accommodation.  Sure enough, returned to the Alfredo where we stayed last week and booked in. 

We walked down to the restaurant on site to have lunch - Little fishes, salad and chips for Jane and Tony and Langoustines with Rocket and Bacon for Sian - Sian not sure about the Langoustines.

Lots of kids around in the pool and playing tennis, in incredible heat! 

Had dinner in the same restaurant, looking out over the lake - very atmospheric - pizza margherita and salad for Jane and Sian whilst Tony had pasta.

Just a note to tell you what's happening - We have decided to head north to Germany than go to Naples and then Greece for the following reasons: 1) Last week in Rome was too warm to do meaningful sightseeing 2) Last week in Naples, the locals set fire to all the rubbish which has been piled up over the last year due to the Mafia controlled Rubbish Companies 3) the economy in Greece is on the verge of collapse 4) the temperature going going south can only get higher!

Anguillara - only famous because of "Everybody loves Raymond"

Rome - 27th June 2011 Monday

Rome – 27 June 2011

It’s departure day for Kay and Susan so the morning, after breakfast, was spent in that kind of limbo these occasions elicit.  Then – there is some kerfuffle in the street with horns tooting and shouting -  their taxi had arrived, had parked in front of a garage – the driver went out looking for us – lady turned up to use garage and blocked road – kept hand on horn – red faced driver running around – found us and then Kay and Susan got in.  This was half an hour before he should have arrived.  Ate the leftover food in the fridge and then packed for departure from apartment tomorrow morning.

Spent a long time walking the streets and Googling maps to find a legal way out of Rome.  By early evening we decided enough was enough and went out for our evening meal – all of us anxious about people flying and our journey tomorrow.  At the restaurant Jane hardly ate a thing – clenched stomach.  We will be getting up at 5.00am tomorrow to try and get some head start on the traffic.

Bed about 11.00pm.

Rome - 26th June 2011

Jane's birthday! 4 cards. With the continuing stifling weather, nothing much planned for today except Sian and Tony are exploring Trastevere. "The othersiders" regard themselves as the true descendents of the original Romans. Kay, Jane and Susan had a local walk and did a bit of shopping.  Hoards of people going towards St Peters Square & the queues to get in the Vatican Museum were dreadful - all standing waiting in the hot sunshine.
Did we mention that there is a Beauty/Massage parlour next door, seemed kosher as we've seen several old ladies going in for a manicures but the 2 seedy Italians going in this afternoon makes us wonder. 
Ate again at Ai Balestrari and then had a wander back to the Basilica for an evening stroll and some final photos as Susan and Kay are flying back tomorrow. Quick snifter at our local bar - named Piquadroemme and home for 11pm

Santa Maria in Trastevere

This is the bridge on the road to nowhere.

The usual suspects at Ai Balestrari trattoria

Dusk in St Peter's square.

Proof that Italian men still live up to their reputations.

Rome - 25 June 2011

After a breakfast of poached and/or boiled eggs, caught Metro to Villa Borghese gardens.  Although we've been here before had forgotten the extent of them and the distance between the "sights".  As it was already very hot (mid 30's) we hopped on the little mini-train along with all the other puffing tourists and went up to the Art Gallery only to find it was closed to all except those who had pre-booked tickets.  Fed up at this because they have some great paintings in there. 

Made our way through very select area of Rome with some very grand hotels back to the Spanish Steps and took some photos from top.  Went back to the local bar (!) for lunch and then a siesta.  All except Sian who went exploring again.  This girl has some stamina traipsing around in this heat.

Gallery at Villa Borghese - open to those with foresight to book

Statue of Byron - inscription reads something like "don't go swimming without water wings"

Fountain - shot from mini-train at 5 mph

At the top of the Spanish Steps

In the evening had Jane's birthday meal (a day early) and chose a nice restaurant where we picked lots of small bits (a bit like tapas really) - pizza, salad, chips and all really enjoyed it.  Back to the bar (yawn) where Kay was introduced to the delights of limoncello.

Rome - 24 June 2011

Tony has had a bad throat for a couple of days but this morning it had got to the stage where it was almost impossible to swallow so off we went in search of a Pharmacy.  Bought some antibiotics over the counter so hopefully these will do the trick. 

After lots of discussion Sian has changed her flight back to England leaving from Pisa instead of Naples.  This will work out better as we will be heading north anyway after Rome and avoiding Naples has to be a bonus.

Leaving Tony to rest, Sian took Metro to Piazza Republica for a look round whilst Jane, Kay and Susan did some shopping as it is Jane's birthday on Sunday.  Bought a dress.

In the evening we walked around until we found what we thought was a reasonable looking restaurant but the food was decidedly average and no one finished their main courses.  Finished the evening at the local bar (do you see a pattern emerging here) and got home at 11.30.    Very hot again.  No pictures today.

Rome – 23 June 2011

We all managed to get up early as planned and marched quickly down to St. Peter’s to look at the Basilica.  Even then the queues were beginning to form but only 5 minutes later we were inside.  Spent about an hour there.  Certainly huge – the second largest church in the world – and well gilded but more of a commercial enterprise than a place of worship.  Impressive enough though.

When we reappeared into the sunshine the queue was already occupying half the circumference of the piazza and that was at 10 am.  We walked on past Castel Sant’ Angelo and over the bridge towards the Piazza Navona.  On the way had 5 coffees in a little cafe which cost 4.70€ - quite a contrast to what we paid the day before yesterday!   Visited Piazza Navona and then on to the Pantheon.

Walked back to Piazza Navona and had lunch there an all felt in great holiday mood.

Tony and Sian wanted to see some more sights but Jane, Kay and Susan had had enough so we split up and Jane investigated hiring a taxi back to the apartment.  The quoted price was a breathtaking 70-80€ and the journey was only half and mile!  Consequently, walked back to flat and arrived about 2.30 very very hot and tired, but much the richer for it! The temperature was 35°c this afternoon, and consequently we all felt fried, boiled, scrambled and roasted. Had dinner in the apartment and much later walked next door to the bar and put the world to rights.

Piazza Navona and white legs.

Pantheon and sun

Piazza Navona's obelisk

Ponte Sant'Angelo from the castle battlements.

Basilica with sunshine on the righteous.

Meet the folks! L to R Kay, Tony, Jane, Susan and Sian.

Rome – 22 June 2011

Rome – 22 June 2011

Didn’t set off quite as early as planned and it was already very hot when we caught the Metro to the Colosseum.  Had to queue for about an hour to get in, but at least it was in the shade.  Went on to the Forum & Jane, Kay and Susan sat under a tree while Sian and Tony explored.  Got the metro back and had lunch in the flat provided by the shop across the road – Pizza, Stuffed Tomatoes and Pastries.  All fell asleep, apart from Sian who went to explore the Piazza Populo and the Spanish Steps once more.

Ate in and had chicken salad and spent an Italian hour or two talking about the day’s events. At 10pm we decided to go down to the local bar to take in the ambience (and the wine).  Got home about midnight.  Very relaxing.

2000 year old building site.

Constantine's Arch

Site Layout!

Signore Barnaby gives the Colosseum the thumbs up.

Rome - 21st June 2011

Signore Barnaby at the Trevi Fountain.

3 coins in a fountain...

Praetorian guard discipline not what it once was.

Spanish steps.

Roma - 21st June 2011

Boiled egg for breakfast! I'd been hankering for a boiled egg (with soldiers) for a while after so many continental breakfasts but after eating it I understand better why people in hot climates don't need a hot breakfast.Took Metro to the Trevi fountain and then along to the Spanish steps so the girls could look in the posh shops. Dior, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, Cartier and also Gucci, where Sian espied a handbag - €16000. It just looked like a plain leather bag, no jewels or gold clasp or other ornamentation. We forgot to take a map, but it was unnecessary - we just followed the other tourists (we all look so obviously touristy) and they took us to the sights.We had lunch in the  flat  after being ripped off in a cafe to the tune of €42.50 for 3 coffees and 2 orange juices. Lesson learnt! Always quanto costa first.
Ate out locally and then sat outside a bar having a drink until midnight. It's too hot really for some of our party.

Rome 20th June 2011

eft Hotel Clodio at 8.00 to drive to the apartment and negotiated the roads well. Awaited awhile for Giusy the landlady to arrive who was delayed by a faulty scooter lock. We quickly moved the luggage into the apartment because, like everyone else, we were double parked in a disabled bay. Giusy (Juicy in English!) then took us, thankfully, to the underground car park to store the car.
Giusy is a lawyer and the flat we are renting is her son's, who is studying at Stockholm for a Master's degree.
Tedious bit now about doing the shopping; the shops that have expensive clothes, furniture and luxury goods are all at ground level whilst the "ordinary" run-of-the-mill shops, like supermarkets, barbers etc are below ground and difficult to locate when you're newly arrived.
Made dinner and waited for the family to arrive from Blighty - 1 hour late. Wonderful to see them all. Finished off the day with a walk to the Vatican City to familiarise the guests with Roman life.

Bracciano to Rome - 19 June 2011

Left Bracciano about 8.00 – did not fancy breakfast and were soon on the outskirts of Rome where, despite 2 maps and having planned the route we got lost.  We could see we were not too far from Hotel but getting there was another matter. .  Managed to stop near the Stadio Olimpico and ask directions.  Got to Hotel but went wrong way down one-way street in doing so.  Didn’t matter – short wide street and no traffic.  Arrived at Hotel at 10.00 and they had our reservation – yippee – and room was ready.  Dumped stuff and went to find the apartment and check the way we have to drive tomorrow.  Found it on foot – lots of one-way streets – fingers crossed for driving it.

Headed towards the Vatican – along with thousands of others and had a croissant and coffee en route.  Not sure where the Pope is at the moment but he was on the big screen Vatican TV in St. Peter’s Square conducting a service somewhere.  Then crossed river and walked to Piazza Navona.  Had lunch near there then came back to the hotel.  Very hot and exhausted – got back about 2.45 and had a cool shower and rest.

Out about 7.00 in the hunt for a restaurant.  Found one not too far away and Tony had steak (so so) and Jane had thick spaghetti (hmm).  Very busy place, people queuing to get in.  Walked back to Vatican for a look without the crowds.  Still quite a few people around.  Back to hotel at 10.00.

Toilet queue in St. Peters!

9.00pm and still trying to keep cool

St. Peters

Viterbo to Bracciano - 18 June 2011

Left Viterbo after a slight misunderstanding with the lady at the Albergo Roma – no surprise – she thought we were staying for 2 nights.  The cost was 55€ for the night.  Easy drive down to Bracciano but when we arrived with no map for reference and no signposts for directions we struggled to fiund a hotel.  A lady helped in rapid Italian and we managed to understand a few words and head off in the right direction.  Bracciano is where Tom Cruise married Katy Holmes if anyone is interested.

Ended up in a tatty little place on the edge of the lake – see photos.

The hotel is too far from the town to walk so we will eat here tonight.  We  will miss the nightly tour of restaurants!

Hotel Alfredo pool

Lake Bracciano

Signore Barnaby enjoying la dolce vita

Orvieto to Viterbo - 17 June 2011

After circumnavigating twice the road around Orvieto we made comfortable progress until a lorry in front of us started to shed its load, luckily out its side rather than the rear. Avoided the debris with a risky manoeuvre but all was well. Parked just outside the city walls and quickly found the Hotel Roma 5 minutes later. The landlady was a blousy blonde woman who would have made a good role in “Only fools and horses” who talked over us and everyone else. Hotel not the best we’ve occupied but will do for a night. At 10.30 the temperature was already 33°c but we still spent 2 hours exploring the backstreets and found an unusual piazza, the “Piazza della Morte” which was built on an Etruscan burial ground and certainly felt ominous and too shady for midday.

Soon after we left the piazza we received a call from Siân informing us that Kay’s son David had admitted himself into hospital with chest pains and promptly had an emergency operation to have two stents put into his coronary arteries! He’ s ok, but we think Kay might want to stay at home instead of coming to Rome to see us. We called Kay but she didn’t have enough information to decide what to do.

To take our minds off David, we found a launderette and, after doing the washing, bought some milk from a supermarket for some tea. We both took tepid showers as the temperature was now in the high 30’s and at 7.30 sallied forth for dinner. The Rough Guide recommended the “Tre Re” and we eventually stumbled upon it and ate a fine meal of porchetta, pine nuts, lemon and prosciutto for €45. Still too hot for sleep so we ambled around for a while to encourage Morpheus’s embrace.

Went out without the camera today so no photos.

Orvieto. 16th June 2011

Had a tasty colazione with real toast but tasteless tea and butter.  Walked around the walls of the city until the steepness of the inclines - it was exacerbated by the high temperatures today 34C.  Tried some fancy pastries at a pasticceria - one full of chocolate and one shaped like an apple.  Had pasta and salad with chicken for lunch and then spent the best part of the afternoon updating the blog with a very slow upload.

Bought two maps of Rome to plot our invasion and after a shower it was time for dinner.  Put on our finest threads for our passeggiata and went back to the restaurant we had seen earlier in the day.  It was called Zeppelin and it holds courses for prospective chefs.  The meal started with fagiolini - pastry stuffed with spinach, cheese and tomato - beautiful;  followed by pork with prunes and rosemary and a huge pork loin chop with vegetables.  We could not fault the cooking, only the quantity.

Sat on the Cathedral steps to soak up more of this lovely place's atmosphere and then went back to the hotel.

View from city walls, Orvieto

Montalcino to Orvieto - 15 June 2011

Woke up at dawn this morning to see a wonderful sight; mist moving across the countryside tickled playfully by the fingers of a red sun – like a tide of cotton wool moving haphazardly around the hills.  Spent half an hour just gazing.  Enough of the poetry.... had an early breakfast and set off for Orvieto about 8.30.  After earlier this morning, felt quite wistful about leaving Tuscany.

Arrived in Orvieto about 10.30 and parked quickly in an underground car park with escalators up to the top of the town.  Spent the usual hour looking for a hotel – found the Duomo at 100€ per night.  It is about 20 yards from the main piazza and the Duomo. 

Had pizza and salad for lunch – just for a change.  Got a change of clothes out of the car and settled in.

During the early evening we visited the Duomo and the length and direction of the sums rays made the frescos on the facade glow with gold and highlight the colours.  After a walk round we ate at L’Antica, and Italian style fast food trattoria – full of us tourists.  We walked back to the Duomo piazza where a chap had set up a grand piano near the cathedral steps and was playing a range of music – all very well.  People were sitting on the steps, listening and applauding – magical, really.

Il Duomo, Orvieto. (top)

Il Duomo (bottom)

Man with portable grand piano. How did he do this?

Our hotel - Il Duomo again.

Siena to Montalcino - 14 June 2011

Before breakfast the receptionist range the hotel in Rome for us as the booking was still not on the computer – at least not in any format that made sense!  Yes we have a room booked – yippee – but this happened before in Lucca as I recall.  Anyway we left for Montalcino after what seemed to be a circuit of the Siena ring road.  Took about an hour and we got here about 9.30.  Had a coffee while we waited for the Tourist Information to open at 10.00.  They booked us into a hotel “Il Giglio” 128€.  The room has the most amazing panoramic view of the countryside.  Had a walk, then lunch of mixed crostini.  Back to the hotel for a nap – thunder rumbling around but nothing much came of it and it passed over.  Then another walk around the city perimeter – up hill and down dale – a good hour or so – returned at 5.00 exhausted.

 During evening walk before meal met an English couple from Sutton Coldfield with relations in Coalville.  They were on an 11 day tour by bus and train.

Ate at Il Moro – very good – Tony had wild boar stew and Jane had guinea fowl.  Nonno (granddad) gave us a grappa Brunello at the end of the meal which was vicious – the smell of it alone was potent but we drank it anyway!  Meal cost 40€ - bargain.

Montalcino

Jane going back to prison

Montalcino by moonlight

Siena - 13 June 2011

Explored the rest of Siena today after colazione – quite good for Italy.  The usual cakes and croissants, yoghurt, ham and cheese.  Went to  Il Duomo and spent about an hour there.  It is quite spectacular – hope the photos do it justice.  Ambled back to Il Campo and sat for ages just watching the crowds milling about.  It does have a very special atmosphere.  A young lady was getting married in the Town Hall and she did a circuit of the Campo with her father (we assume it was her father and not the groom!) to applause.  Also a Cycling Club from France arrived and were having their pictures taken there.

After a light lunch (a repeat of yesterday) we returned to the hotel and spent the best part of 1 ½ hours on the internet trying to book and then confirm that we had booked, a hotel in Rome for the 19^th June.  Receptionist rang the hotel and Jane spoke to them – the booking would not appear on the computer for another 2 hours!

Went out for dinner.  Managed to find a really good restaurant, “La Taverna de Cecco” where Jane ate well on crostini and pollo alla cacciatora and Tony had local sausages with chips and peas. It was soon full to bursting and we were asked if we would move to a different table to let a party of four get it.  We sat next to a French couple and we jovially chatted in Franglais about travel.

The cupola inside the Duomo

The altar, the Duomo, Siena

Signore Barnaby enjoying the Campo

Frescos inside transept in the Duomo

Volterra to Siena - 12 June 2011

Left the Seminary in Volterra just after 8.00 and set off through the Tuscan countryside to Siena, a journey of about an hour.  Amazingly, we parked just outside the city walls almost next to the place we stayed in 2004 but decided against staying there again.  Went into the larger Hotel Italia next door but, at 140€ a night, decided to walk into the city instead.  Found a room at Hotel Chiusarelli, much closer to the centre and with a view of the Duomo for 130€ and parking.

Spent the next 3 hours sightseeing and lad a light lunch at a cafe near the Duomo – very good but service slow as they were very busy.  The owner (Paulo), now almost bald, had photo of younger self with fine head of black hair on the wall dressed in some sort of medieval finery.

Evening meal not so successful.  Jane’s beef stew was eaten by Tony and Tony’s sausages were attempted but went in the bin later!  Walked down to Il Campo after to savour the atmosphere in the dark.  Strange acoustics with voices echoing around.  Late home for us 11.00.

Palazzo del Publico and the Campo, Siena

The Duomo, Siena

Il Campo at night

Piazza Salimbeni, Siena

Volterra - 11 June 2011

Filled up car with petrol and did some shopping, mostly for wine.  Strolled around and found internet cafe where we updated the blog.  Then had a look at the cathedral (cathedral comes from the word cattedra which means the chair on which the bishop sits).  Found out where all the local teenagers hang out on a Saturday – the big archaeological site above the town – all larking about and flirting with each other.

Looked like rain so we went back to Seminary and had lunch followed by usual nap.  Rain never happened.  Tried to work out route to Rome and stopping off places.

We later investigated the highest point of the town to get best panoramic view and because the building up there looked very interesting on the map, resembling a medieval castle, but we couldn’t get onto the outer walls to investigate.  After a long walk we came to the entrance to find it is the local penitentiary.

Went to Il Porchellino for dinner.  Wild pig for Tony and tame pork chop for Jane.  OK 55€.  Went home about 10.00.  Siena tomorrow.

Volterra Town Hall

View from Seminary

San Gimignano - 10 June 2011

Went out for the day today – 27km to the hill town of San Gimignano, famous for its 14 towers.  Parked easily – it wasn’t nearly as busy as we expected.  Delightful place with stunning views over the Tuscan countryside.  Lots of touristy shops selling handbags, calendars, pottery etc.  Had pizza and salad for lunch.  Drove back to Volterra and had afternoon nap.

There is an political/social election pending about nuclear power and a brass band was walking up and down the streets playing, including “Hava Nagila”, which I believe is a Jewish number.  Lady in piazza tried to get us to dance with her!!

Had a pleasant, if expensive meal at the “Ombre della Sera” at 70€.  Waiter used to live in Leeds and very often hankered after a Sunday roast with Yorkshire pudding and sticky toffee pudding. Afterwards we went for a snifter at “La Perchotta” where 3 German fraulein put us to shame by speaking fluent Italian.  Staggered home at about 10.30.  Coolish evening again.

16th century high rise flats

Jane posing in San Gim

Barnaby about to be squashed by mermaid

Piazza with well - San Gim